Amigurumi Basics - Rounds

The first step when creating amigurumi is usually the magic adjustable ring. If you are unfamiliar with this technique check out my post here on how to make the magic ring. The magic adjustable ring creates the foundation while also closing up the hole that would normally occur when creating a foundation chain and slip stitching it into a circle.

When you are working with rounds I have found it very helpful to to count a specific way to keep track of the row and the number of stitches. If your foundation starts with 6 stitches, then you will be working in multiples of 6. If you are starting with 5 it will be multiples of 5. How so you may ask? Each time you have to increase stitches or decrease stitches, so if you do it correctly it will be multiples of the number you started with. The easiest way to count them is to remember what multiple of your starting number comes next. So for 6 the next row will have 12, the next will increase to 18, then 24, etc.

Rounds Basics:
If you start with 6 stitches in your foundation then to increase that you will make 2 sc in each sc in the foundation. This gives you 12 sc. So naturally you will want to increase again and what multiple of 6 comes next? It's 18 of course! You are on the third round, so 6 times 3 is 18. You count 1 sc in the first sc, then 2 sc in the next, then 1sc in the next sc, and so on. You could try to remember how many times you repeat the *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc*. However, I found that the best way to count is to remember that you are going up to 18, and you only sc in every other sc in the round. So you would count to yourself 1, 2-3, 4, 5-6, 7, 8-9, 10, 11-12, 13, 14-15, 16, 17-18. This way you are counting in multiples of 3 since you are on the third row, so if you have to pause you can easily figure out how much more you have to go.

For the fourth row you have to remember that you sc in the next two and 2 sc in the third. This is the fourth row, so when you are counting the 2 sc in 1 sc will actually end in multiples of 4, but ultimately you end up with the next multiple of 6. That would be 24, so that is how many stitches you will have, and this is the number you count up to. It would be counted like 1, 2, 3-4, 5, 6, 7-8, 9, 10, 11-12... and so on until you hit 24.

Basic sphere:
Start with 6 sc in the magic ring
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around (makes 12 sc)
Row 3: *1 sc in sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat 6 times (makes 18)
Row 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat 6 times times (makes 24)
Row 5 - 7: 1 sc in each sc in the round (24 sc)
Row 8: *1 sc in next 2 sc, sc next 2 sts tog* repeat 6 times (makes 18)
Row 9: *1 sc in next sc, sc next 2 sts tog* repeat 6 times (makes 12)
**You will want to fill your ball with stuffing at this point**
Row 10: *sc next 2 sts tog* repeat 6 times (closes the hole up)
You can continue to decrease until the hole is completely gone, and tuck the tail in side.

As you can see, each time we increase we add 1 sc before we make 2 sc in one sc, but we still repeat 6 times. They are all multiples of six, so if you want a bigger ball it would go from 24 to 30 to 36 etc.

I hope this helps someone! This is how I keep track of what row and how many stitches I have to make whenever I crochet amigurumi. Comment if you have any questions and I might be able to help!

Banana Giveaway

I created a banana pattern (click here to buy the pdf pattern from my shop), and now my demo banana needs a home!

There are many ways to enter your name into this giveaway, some ways get you more than one entry.

Ways to win this banana:
1. Post here leaving a comment.
2. Tell me what your favorite item in my Etsy shop is.
3. Post my giveaway on your blog, facebook, twitter, or other accounts and post the link(s) here.
4. Follow my blog.
5. Any purchases made in my etsy shop also receives an entry(let me know in seller notes, convo, or here).
6. Send a friend to my shop and if they purchase something you'll get an additional entry. (You must let me know who you sent once they make a purchase, so that I know who to give credit to).

I will draw the winning name on August 1st, 2009.
And so you know it's legitimate, I will upload a youtube video of me drawing a name from a hat.

*Make sure you leave your contact information so that I can notify you if you are the winner.*

Heart Applique Pattern

Heart Applique

This pattern is free for personal use only, and is licenced by Creative Commons.

Materials:
You can really use any yarn and a small hook. I used Caron Simply Soft 4 medium worsted yarn, and a 33 1/4 mm hook (size D or 3).

Abbreviations:
ch ---- chain
st(s) -- stitch(es)
sc ---- single crochet
sl st -- slip stitch
hdc -- half double crochet
dc --- double crochet
tr --- treble

Important notes:
For R1 crochet into the ring. You will have to slide the stitches close together to be able to fit all of them in as you go along (see image below).

Directions:
ch 4, join with a slst into the first st. (this forms a ring)

R1: sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dc, hdc, 2sc, hdc, 2tr, hdc, 2sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc (Do NOT turn, sl st, or chain)

R2: sc in next two sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, slst in last st

Finish off and draw the loose end through to the back of the heart. I like to pull it tight and draw it through just beneath the slst to bring the cleavage of the heart down more.

A little more than halfway through R1. You can see how the stitches are tight next to each other so I can finish making the last hump of the heart shape.


Heart Applique by Juliette Peterson is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License.

Making Mario

I have a bunch of new items for sale in my Etsy shop! You can check out a few of them in the side bar -->

Lets take a look at my crocheted Mario...

This is the second Mario I've made. The first time I didn't write down the pattern. That wasn't too smart because only a few hours after posting it someone had bought it! I started on this Mario soon after and this time I wrote down the pattern.

Making your own pattern isn't that easy. I based the head and body off of another pattern, but the other body parts and hat had to be invented. I draw out what I want the finished product to look like so I can get a feel for the proportions. I believe that is the most important part in creating a toy.

If the proportions are correct you will have a cute product. Even though terms like "cute" are subjective there are several ways to make your product appealing. I choose to go the Hello Kitty route. If you look at Hello Kitty she has a huge head in comparison with her body and limbs. Also, her head may be large but her eyes and nose are tiny. In Mario's case he has a very large nose. It is one of his defining characteristics, along with his fluffy mustache. You have to pick which features to accentuate. Mario's hat also adds to the size of his head. Giant ears seem to be cute for some animals. It really all depends on the subject, and that is why I sketch out what I want it to look like first!

I also mark down what colors go where. I suppose since I did do this in photoshop that I could have colored it, but that might distract me from the overall design. And I like to print it out so I can work on it while away from the computer. Ok I lied! I usually sketch it out on real paper. ;D